Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) write by Bradley Hook. This book was released on 2013-12. Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Surfing Life Waves (in Russian) explores using surfing as a philosophy for living life. The book features beautiful surf photography and takes the reader through various stages of the surfing experience, from paddling out to catching the ultimate wave. It is the perfect book for anyone who loves the ocean lifestyle. There are waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure and adventure all around us. Using the approach of the surfer you will learn how you can make the most of the waves that crash into your life.
Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition)
Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) write by Bradley Hook. This book was released on 2013-12. Surfing Life Waves (Russian Edition) available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. " " . ., .,, - .,,, . ., .
Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Barbarian Days write by William Finnegan. This book was released on 2016-04-26. Barbarian Days available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Rockaway
Rockaway - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Rockaway write by Diane Cardwell. This book was released on 2020. Rockaway available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Surfing Life Waves
Surfing Life Waves - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Surfing Life Waves write by Bradley Hook. This book was released on 2012-12. Surfing Life Waves available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. We are surrounded by waves: from light, sound, electrical and micro waves through to the quantum waves that underpin our reality. Amidst all this wave activity it's easy to draw a comparison between the physical waves we know so well and the experiential waves - or opportunities - that colour our existence. Waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure, adventure and a spectrum of enriching experiences swirl constantly around us. The approach of the surfer - arguably the world's foremost experts in waves - provides a metaphor for embracing your life waves with passion, commitment, detachment, flow and fun. There are waves breaking everywhere. How you choose to find and ride them is up to you.
