Kook - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Kook write by Peter Heller. This book was released on 2010-07-13. Kook available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Natural Surf Technique
Natural Surf Technique - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Natural Surf Technique write by Frank Caronna. This book was released on 2014-10-17. Natural Surf Technique available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. I wrote this book with the confidence of 25 years teaching and coaching surfing and feel I have established a technique that will help beginner to intermediate surfers learn and reach their potential faster while staying safe and respectful to other surfers and the ocean. I have used my techniques to help surfers of all levels while keeping in mind the different body types people have and hope you enjoy the techniques and teachings the book provides. You can view the slide up technique and a few other things I teach in the book on YouTube under Natural Surf Technique to better help you understand and connect the techniques better. Enjoy and better safer surfing, Frank Caronna(Author owner and surf coach for Natural Surf Technique)
Rockaway
Rockaway - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Rockaway write by Diane Cardwell. This book was released on 2020. Rockaway available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook Barbarian Days write by William Finnegan. This book was released on 2016-04-26. Barbarian Days available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been
It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been - read free eBook in online reader or directly download on the web page. Select files or add your book in reader. Download and read online ebook It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been write by BJ Gallagher. This book was released on 2014-02-11. It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Inspired by the timeless quote by the great writer George Eliot, It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been is a guidebook to getting the life you've always wanted. Written in best-selling author BJ Gallagher's trademark warm and witty style, this book is written for, in her own words, "Everyone who has let fear or busyness or any reason good or bad get in the way of achieving your highest goals and long-held dreams, and isn't that everyone?" Whether you are a brand new college graduate going out into the big, wide world, a business executive escaping burnout, or a 40-something mom looking for a 'second life,' this book is a wonderful combination of great advice, step-by-step guidelines, and pure inspiration to listen to and honor your inner voice and seize not just the day, but the rest of your life!
